Overview
NaturTex - Valorisation of Agroforestry Waste from Inland Portugal for Textile Functionalisation is a research, development and innovation project dedicated to creating more sustainable solutions for the textile industry.
The project aims to transform agroforestry, forestry and fruit-processing waste and by-products into sources of natural pigments and bioactive compounds. These compounds will be extracted using green chemistry processes and incorporated into formulations for the colouring and functionalisation of natural textile fibres. With a particular focus on wool from Serra da Estrela, NaturTex seeks to increase the economic and environmental value of textiles produced in inland Portugal while promoting the circular economy, regional bioeconomy and more efficient use of natural resources.
Context and Identified Problem
The textile industry uses significant amounts of water, energy, synthetic dyes and chemical auxiliaries, particularly during dyeing and finishing. Many of these substances have limited biodegradability and may contribute to the contamination of water, soil and ecosystems. At the same time, agroforestry activities and food-processing industries generate large volumes of shells, leaves, stones, pomace, rejected fruit and other by-products. These materials frequently contain phenolic compounds, flavonoids, natural pigments and other molecules with valorisation potential, but they continue to be used mainly in low-value applications or treated as waste.
The materials studied by NaturTex include by-products from acorns and Quercus species, olive trees, almond trees, cherry trees and blueberries. The project also addresses the limited value of part of the wool produced in the Serra da Estrela region. The characteristics of this wool restrict some conventional applications and contribute to the generation of low-value surpluses. Applying natural finishes and functional properties may support the development of differentiated and more competitive products.
Objectives
NaturTex’s main objective is to develop natural formulations for textile colouring and functionalisation using compounds extracted from plant-based waste and by-products sourced in inland Portugal. The project aims to:
- Identify agroforestry and fruit-processing waste with high valorisation potential;
- Create a supplier network for plant-based raw materials;
- Develop extraction processes based on green chemistry;
- Use natural deep eutectic solvents to extract pigments and bioactive compounds;
- Characterise the physicochemical, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of the extracts;
- Develop natural formulations for textile colouring and finishing;
- Provide textiles with bioactive, antioxidant, antimicrobial and flame-resistant properties;
- Test the solutions on wool and other natural fibres, including cotton and hemp;
- Validate the formulations at laboratory and pilot scale;
- Reduce the use of synthetic dyes and chemical auxiliaries;
- Valorise the remaining materials as biofertilisers or biomass;
- Assess the environmental impact of the solution with the greatest market potential through a life-cycle assessment;
- Support the transfer of the technologies developed to the textile industry.
Technological Development and Innovation
NaturTex applies biorefinery and green chemistry principles to the production of natural compounds for textile applications. The selected waste and by-products will be prepared, separated and processed to extract pigments and bioactive compounds. The process will use natural deep eutectic solvents, known as NADES, which are characterised by their low toxicity, biodegradability and ability to extract different molecules of interest.
The use of these solvents may allow the extracts to be applied directly in textile formulations, reducing the separation stages normally required when conventional organic solvents are used. The project will also study the use of enzymes to improve the release and isolation of molecules present in the raw materials. The extracts will be characterised according to their composition and functional properties, including:
- Phenolic and flavonoid content;
- Antioxidant capacity;
- Antimicrobial activity;
- Colouring capacity;
- Potential to provide flame resistance.
The most promising formulations will be applied to wool, cotton and hemp fabrics. Different dyeing and functionalisation conditions will be studied, including time, temperature, concentration, application methods and surface treatments. The functionalised materials will be evaluated for colour intensity and uniformity, resistance to washing, light, friction and thermal treatments, as well as for the preservation of their bioactive and functional properties.
Impact and Contribution
NaturTex aims to support the textile industry’s transition towards more circular and efficient production models based on natural raw materials. By valorising agroforestry waste and by-products, the project may create new sources of income for farmers, forest owners and processing companies. The organisation of a dedicated supply chain may also generate new activities related to collecting, separating, processing and commercialising these materials.
In the textile industry, the partial replacement of synthetic dyes and auxiliaries with natural extracts may reduce the use of potentially polluting compounds, as well as the water and energy required for dyeing, washing and wastewater treatment. The project also aims to:
- Increase the economic value of wool from Serra da Estrela;
- Strengthen the competitiveness of the wool textile industry;
- Valorise endogenous resources from inland regions;
- Create highly qualified scientific and technical employment;
- Connect producers, research organisations and industry;
- Promote bio-based processes and products;
- Reduce the amount of discarded waste;
- Encourage the replication of the solutions in other regions and sectors.
Project Information
Programme: Promove Programme - Mobilising R&D Projects 2024
Funding Organisations: “la Caixa” Foundation, in collaboration with BPI
Application Code: PD24-00062
Project Title: NaturTex - Valorisation of Agroforestry Waste from Inland Portugal for Textile Functionalisation
Total Investment: €317,154.13
Funding from the “la Caixa” Foundation: €250,000.00
Consortium Co-funding: €67,154.13
Funding Rate: 78.83%
Duration: 36 months
Start Date: 02/09/2024
End Date: 01/09/2027
Coordinator: CBE - Centre of Biological Engineering - University of Minho
Consortium: University of Beira Interior e LandraTech
Industrial Support and Validation Organisations: Fitecom, A Transformadora, TrendBurel, Tintex e AITEX
Status: Ongoing